We finally got to check out Rolex and Tudor’s newest crop of timepieces at Watches & Wonders 2024. There’s a lot to love here, from subtle updates of classic tool watches to entirely new models: From Tudor, we’re loving the brand new Black Bay 58 GMT, and Rolex’s ice-blue Perpetual 1908 truly knocked our socks off.
Check out our favorites below.
![Rolex GMT-Master II Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II ref. 126710GRNR](png/rolex-watch-1860b.png?fit=1200%2C800)
Rolex GMT-Master II Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II ref. 126710GRNR
New for 2024 is a fresh take on the GMT-Master II travel watch with a bi-color black and grey Cerachrom bezel. With numerals coated in platinum via PVD and hour indices and hands coated in Chromalight, it’s perfectly legible in any environment, while a green 24-hour hand pops against the black dial. Inside, the COSC-certified Rolex Calibre 3285 offers 70 hours of power reserve, while a screw-down crown with Triplock technology promises 100m of water resistance. Other than that, it’s largely the GMT-Master II we all know and love — 40mm case, bi-directional bezel, dual time zone tracking, etc. But boy, does it look good in person, and the best part? It comes in your choice of Jubilee or Oyster bracelet.
Diameter: 40mm
Movement: Rolex Calibre 3285 automatic
Water Resistance: 100m
![Rolex Oyster Perpetual Rolex Deepsea](png/rolex-3860b.png?fit=1200%2C800)
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Rolex Deepsea
Now here’s a fun thing that’s totally overdone, but in a delightfully entertaining way: The new take on the Oyster Perpetual Rolex Deepsea is in 18K yellow gold for the first time, including a matching Oyster bracelet. Water resistant to a James Cameron-esque 3,900 meters and featuring a helium escape valve, a ceramic Ringlock system, a COSC certified automatic movement, and an Oysterlock safety clasp with a Glidelock diver’s extension, this is, technically-speaking, a serious tool — even if it’s only a select few intrepid souls with whimsical senses of humor (and expensive insurance policies) who are actually going to dive with it. Measuring 44mm and nearly 18mm tall (including the sapphire crystal), it’s not the type of thing to slip under a tuxedo jacket cuff…unless your last name happens to be “Bond.” (Or “Cameron.”)
Diameter: 44mm
Movement: Rolex Calibre 3235 automatic
Water Resistance: 3,900m
![Rolex Perpetual 1908](png/rolex-3.2860b.png?fit=1200%2C800)
Rolex Perpetual 1908
One of the big surprises from Watches & Wonders 2023 was the new Perpetual 1908 collection, a dressy line that took the place of the discontinued Cellini. Inspired by a Rolex reference from — you guessed it — 1908 and measuring 39mm in diameter, it manages to straddle the line well between vintage and contemporary watchmaking, with a fluted bezel, sub-seconds, and a simplified handset. This year, however, Rolex has turned up the “modernity” knob, recasing the watch in platinum and adding an ice-blue dial in a stunning guilloché pattern. And while you’d think that perhaps this combination of metal and dial color would render the 1908 too idiosyncratic to work as a typical dress watch, the engine turning works wonders — you could easily pull this off with (the right) suit, especially given the luxurious brown alligator leather strap.
Diameter: 39mm
Movement: Rolex Calibre 7140 automatic
Water Resistance: 50m
The Best New Watches of Watches & Wonders 2024
The year’s biggest horological event is kicking off this very week in Geneva.![Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT](png/tudor-watch_860b.png?fit=1200%2C800)
Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT
The biggest news from Rolex’s sister brand is the addition of a brand-new model to the catalog, the Black Bay 58 GMT. You’re no doubt familiar with the Black Bay GMT, a 41mm model that takes many style cues from Rolex’s own GMT-Master and GMT-Master II. The new BB 58 GMT still offers an automatic GMT movement with an independently adjustable local hour hand, but it houses it within a 39mm case. And unlike the Black Bay Pro — which is 39mm but 14.6mm tall — this one measures just 12.8mm thick and slips more easily beneath a cuff. Beyond that, it also features a new movement, the Manufacture Calibre MT5450-U, which is METAS-certified and boasts a 65-hour power reserve. It’s available on Tudor’s 3-link stainless steel “rivet-style” bracelet or a black rubber strap.
Diameter: 39mm
Movement: Tudor Manufacture Calibre MT5450-U automatic
Water Resistance: 200m
![Tudor Black Bay 41](png/tudor-watch-1860b.png?fit=1200%2C800)
Tudor Black Bay 41
The Black Bay was the collection that relaunched Tudor into the American market and solidified its reputation as a strong player on the tool watch scene once again — one that, while certainly influenced by its sister brand Rolex, is able to offer its own distinct wares at prices under $5,000. The newest Black Bay 41 is a prime example: Housed in the line’s familiar 41mm stainless steel case, it features a black dial with rhodium-plates elements, a black bezel with silver elements, the Tudor Manufacture Calibre MT5602-U with 70 hours of power reserve, and your choice of one of three bracelets: A steel three-link rivet-style bracelet; a steel five-link Jubilee-style bracelet (which is very comfortable); or a black rubber dive strap. Handsome and well priced, it’s the perfect alternative (or sister within a collection) to the Rolex Submariner.
Diameter: 41mm
Movement: Tudor Manufacture Calibre MT5602-U automatic
Water Resistance: 200m
![Tudor Black Bay 58 18K](png/tudor-watch-3860b.png?fit=1200%2C800)
Tudor Black Bay 58 18K
Lastly, an elevated take on a modern classic — the new Tudor Black Bay 58 18K. An evolution of Tudor’s vintage-inspired Black Bay 58 line, the new version offers an 18K yellow gold case with a matching three-link rivet-style bracelet with “T-fit” in the same metal. Featuring — for the first time in Tudor watch history — an exhibition caseback in order to give a clear view of the COSC-certified Tudor Manufacture Calibre MT5400 movement, the BB58 18K boasts a “golden green” dial with matching gold makers, a Snowflake handset, and a power reserve of 70 hours. Accompanied by a five-year guarantee, this baby will set you back a cool $32,100 — but with 200m of water resistance, you can still bang it around just like any other Tudor tool watch. (Maybe just watch your six for potential thieves once you get out of the water, however.)
Diameter: 39mm
Movement: Tudor Manufacture Calibre MT5400 automatic
Water Resistance: 200m
This article was featured in the InsideHook newsletter. Sign up now.